Up and coming designer Kanika Saluja Choudhry’s Anaikka collection at this season’s Delhi fashion week can be described as aristocratic, with secrets. Besides four camel toned outfits more reminiscent of Egyptian royalty, the collection maintains a very Tudor color palate of mahogany, grey, black, and deep purple. And then there’s the secrets part: long, dignified skirts and dresses give way to jumpsuits, pop-out skirts and micro-shorts. Think of a princess sneaking out her window to go to a disco, or a femme fatale superhero two seconds before breaking out of her high society disguise.
Most of the collection maintains high, gothic necklines that create a wonderful parallelism with defined waistlines. Beads frequent the collection: square, punk-y studs border peplums and collars, while mini-crystalline studs capture light in understated spasms. The collection is both traditional and cutting-edge. One dress is an inoffensive silk two-tone gown that hangs crease-less on the model. Another outfit includes an is-it-a-skirt-or-are-they- pants number: the tight, embroidered pants look like they are emerging from the oblong skirt behind them (or is it just an extension of the blouse?). This peculiar yet likeable article is paired with a cropped marshmallow jacket with rolled-up sleeves a leather collar. It’s refreshing to see whimsy and poise exhibit the same stage in such a devil-may-care way.
Kanika Saluja Choudhry is an emerging name in the world of Indian fashion design, but her ambition and fashion-forward vision have already taken her far. In 2012, she dressed Madonna for her performance at the Super Bowl. Choudhry claims that her designs are for women who are creators, fighters, and destroyers. Vogue India calls her style “high on grit” and “gladiator-esque.” Last year, she stunned audiences with her use of metal, which was unheard of in the India fashion week world at the time. Now, she relies less on shock value and more on her own interpretations of what represents a strong woman, sartorially.
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